I’ll try to get you caught up with
our travels.
While we were in Puerto Rico for
almost a week we got caught up on some projects and did some provisioning. Due to the virus alerts we did not venture
too far from the marina. We were
monitoring the weather and planning our next passage when we got the forecast
we were looking for. We would have about
four days between systems to make our move.
The winds were still high but were to drop each day until we would have
to start motoring. We chose to leave on
Saturday, the 14th. The seas
had not settled down yet as we motored directly into them in order to get
around the East end of the island. We
motored for about six hours until we were clear of the island and we could
change course and hoist sails. We were
beating into the wind and as the wind increased we dropped the mainsail and
continued on with just the mizzen and headsail.
We were getting pushed around a lot by about 6-8 foot seas that were
hitting us on the beam (side of the boat) with a number breaking onto the
deck. Twice that night we were hit with
a wave big enough to get into the cockpit through the side curtains and even
splash onto our bed. Eventually we were
able to turn down a little to get a better angle to the wind and waves but it
was still a rough ride. The winds were
in the 20’s and we were doing 7-8 knots.
Each day the winds dropped and the
ride was getting better. By Monday the
wind had dropped into the teens and the seas had dropped and we again hoisted
the mainsail. We continued on and
Tuesday the winds were 10-15 with 2-5 foot seas. We were approaching our destination and
altered course and then by evening had to drop sails and motor the
remainder. We arrived at Great Inagua
Cay in the Bahamas and dropped anchor about 8:45 pm. We had traveled 510 miles in 84 hours.
You may wonder what we do during
this time? Mostly tried to sleep. We keep a constant watch of conditions and
for other vessels so someone is always in the cockpit. We vary between 6 hour shifts during the day
and four hours during the night.
Therefore someone is always trying to sleep which isn’t easy when the boat
is heeled over and being pitched about by the waves.
In the morning, Wednesday the 18th,
we dinghied into the marina and walked up to Customs and Immigration to check
in. We were lucky that the Customs
officials were on their way to the office and stopped to give us a ride after
questioning about our health. We were
able to check in and were all set. While
we were checking in the Prime Minister was announcing the changes being
instituted for closing down the islands.
We were just in time. The
anchorage is subject to a swell that causes a nasty roll so we pulled anchor
and moved around to the west side of the island into Man O’ War Bay where it
wasn’t rolling as bad. There were only
three other boats with lots of room between them, perfect for social
distancing. We stayed here for a week,
relaxing on the boat, exploring with the dinghy and doing some snorkeling. At one time we got too close to breaking
waves and all of a sudden we were surfing down a six foot wave until it broke
over us and we had to climb up the next one to get out of the mess. Another day we were in a bay snorkeling and
looking for conch when a four foot shark came over to check me out, twice. No conch but also no shark bites but I was
able to swim with a stingray for a bit.
At the end of the week we moved back to the anchorage by town and made a
trip in to pick up some gasoline and hit the grocery store. I filled two 5 gallon jerry jugs with gas for
the outboards and generator at a cost of $72.00 US. They don’t sell fuel at the marina so they
have a truck deliver it. After a tip for
the driver it cost $75.00 for 10 gallons.
I plan on using it sparingly. We
used the marinas WiFi to check messages and to send the quick update to the
blog.
On Saturday, the 28th,
after a rolley night we pulled anchor and moved on. We were heading to a section of the Bahamas
called the Ragged Islands. It was going
to be a 24 trip. With winds blowing
15-20 knots and seas of 4 feet just off the beam (slightly behind us) we sailed
at 6-7 knots until arriving in the morning.
We turned off at Johnson Cut and followed the waypoints on the chart
until we arrived at Hog Key in the Raggeds, there are many Hog Cays in the
Bahamas. We had traveled 159 miles in 25
hours. After taking a nap to get caught
up on sleep we went to shore to check out the island. We walked the beach for a bit and then took a
trail over to the ocean side of the island to check that out.
The Ragged Islands are remote with
just one settlement on the southern most island. That is the only cell tower and we were too
far away to get a signal. In the morning
we pulled anchor and motored down to Southside Bay on Ragged Island and
anchored. There were five other boats
here. We walked into town to see if the
store had any fresh fruit or vegetable but we were out of luck. The town still has a lot of damaged buildings
from the last couple of hurricanes but it now has a new solar farm along with
the generator to supply power. They also
have a cell tower. Walking back to the
boat we missed our turn and ended up at the end of the runway at the
airport. The terminal consisted of a
group of chairs under a tree and a platform with a couple of fire
extinguishers. Not what we are used to
seeing for an airport but a nice paved runway with solar powered lights. In the morning we went to check out one of
the beaches and to look for a trail to the ocean side. Not finding anything on the beach or a trail
we went back to the boat and pulled anchor.
The weather forecast was for winds
out of the West on Wednesday and we needed to find a location that was
protected from the West. We motored up
to Double Breasted Cay where we knew several others were going. We dropped anchor with five other boats and
settled in for the night. During the
night the winds shifted and were kicking up some rough chop but nothing too
bad. Several boats bailed out for better
locations but we chose to stay and ride it out.
By evening the winds had shifted to the northwest and things calmed
down.
Thursday morning, the 2nd,
we dropped the dinghy and went to one of the small close by islands to look for
shells and sea-beans. Sea-beans are
seeds, about 1-2 inches across, that wash up on the shore, usually the ocean
side, after being washed down the rivers on the islands in the Caribbean or
from South America. They are considered
to be lucky and can be carved and polished for ornamentation. We found a few but hit the jackpot when we
moved to the ocean side of Double Breasted Cay.
There were two beaches between the rocks and along with all of the
litter, mostly plastic, were sea-beans.
I beat Cori by finding 63 to her 61.
There are a variety of different types, what we found are called
sea-hearts and a couple of hamburgers (which look like little hamburgers). They are used by cruisers for decoration and
crafts. By the time we got back to the boat
the winds had shifted, now from the northeast and the anchorage got rough
again. We pulled anchor and moved over
to Raccoon Cay and dropped the hook. We
had the place to ourselves. Most of the
other boats had gone back to Hog Cay. In
the morning we dinghied to shore to explore.
The charts showed some ruins and after bushwhacking through the brush we
found the ruins of a small cottage, the walls three feet thick built from the
local rock. We also found several rock
wall fences winding through the brush along with a herd of goats. One other boat joined us in the bay.
Today is Saturday, the 4th,
and we pulled anchor again and sailed back down to Southside Bay with the
intent of getting connected to the cell tower.
It was just 15 miles but a great sail with all three sails flying. We plan on staying here for a couple more
days.
What is happening with the Covid-19
virus in the Bahamas? There are several
cases on the most populated islands but not on the more remote islands. They are trying to contain it by not allowing
any travel between islands, an early curfew, and closing down all but essential
business. We as cruisers are still
allowed to move from island to island but the latest order is that we cannot
get off our boats except for essentials such at fuel, water and
provisions. Many have cut their stay
early and are on their way home. Being a
we live on our boat we do not have a “home” to go back to. We have decided to extend our stay in the
islands as long as they will allow us staying in the more remote islands or
isolating ourselves from groups of locals or other cruisers.
Sorry there are no pictures but we have
a very slow connection.
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