I would like to tell you how much we enjoyed St. Croix but
that will have to happen next year. We
left St. Thomas on the 16th and started on our way. We got about 2.5 miles and the engine started
to act up. It felt and sounded like fuel
starvation. We turned around and headed
back to the harbor. Rather than drop
anchor we picked up a mooring ball and I went to work replacing the fuel
filter. It did not look that dirty but
you never know. We dropped the mooring
and headed out again, motoring directly into a light wind. All was going well until about seven miles
out the engine did its thing again. It
wasn’t the filter. Checking things out I
found that the fuel primer bulb that is used to push fuel to the filter when
changing filters was collapsed. By
dropping the rpm’s it ran fine. We
decided this was a sign we were not supposed to go to St. Croix and we turned
and motor-sailed to Great Lameshure Bay on St John. This is our favorite harbor on St. John and
is a great place to relax and get away from all of the other cruisers and
charterers. On Friday I replaced the
priming bulb and everything ran fine, again.
I then ran the generator and made water while Cori went kayaking. Lee and Sharon on Allegro came in and in the
evening we joined them and Larry and Barb from Aquilla for social hour.
We decided to make plans for the next week to go to St.
Martin. Chris Parker, our weather
advisor, was forecasting an unusual weather pattern. A low was coming in and the trade winds were
to die and we would get a couple of days of winds from the NW moving to
NE. His advice was to wait until
Tuesday. Being as we were where we
wanted to be it was an easy decision.
Saturday I decided to find why the priming bulb collapsed. Was it just old and soft or did something
plug the intake to cause excessive vacuum.
I pulled the pickup from the tank but could not find anything,
especially with a full tank. Later Cori
went kayaking, paddle boarding, and snorkeling with Lee and Sharon. I spent the day with a good book. Sunday we were picked up by Lee and Sharon
and Tom and Pat from Lonestar and we rode their dinghies around the point to
the sugar factory to hike to the petroglyphs.
From there we took the trail that leads up to The Great House. During the slave rebellions most of the master’s
homes were destroyed but not this one on St. John. Over the years the park service has made
attempts to restore parts of it.
Saturday morning Lee and Sharon came over to drop off a book
and give us advice on St. Martin. Later
in the morning we dropped the mooring and headed off to Virgin Gorda to get
ready to cross. We chose to sail on the
south side of the islands instead of the Drake Channel and Cori put out a
fishing line. She caught a nice size
barracuda but he was set free. Later she
hooked up a nice 10 pound black fin tuna.
Her first tuna. After that we cut
back into the Drake Channel and motored up to the North Bay hoping to get a
mooring in Lubrick Bay. We could use the
free water and ice they give when you use their mooring. With the wind forecast to come around from
the west and northwest everyone else had the same idea. We anchored where we could find a spot and
settled in for the night.
The trip from the BVI’s to St. Martin is about 80 miles so
sailors have to leave late in the day to arrive the next morning. Otherwise we would arrive at night in the
dark, not a good plan. In the morning we
listened in to Chris Parker and were going to verify his advice when another
boat, Callahan, called and asked. We
were a go for a late afternoon departure.
We contacted Callahan just to let them know we would be out there with
them and waited. At 4:30 pm we raised
the main and mizzen sails, pulled our anchor and were off. Once out of the harbor we turned to our
heading and put out half of our headsail.
The winds were on the beam at 20 knots, gusting to 25. Chris forecasted the winds to drop during the
night and about 10:30 we were under four knots and started the motor. We had sailed 30 miles of the trip. We continued to motor-sail through the night
with one rain squall, and when the sun came up in the morning there was an
island in front of us. GPS and the auto
pilot did not let us down.
We arrived in St. Martin about 9:30 am and motored around
the harbor looking for a good spot to anchor.
We chose a spot with a couple of other boats well away from the
pack. We launched the dinghy just as it
started to rain. Once it was over we got
our stuff together to check in. The rain
fooled us and we got soaked. St. Martin
is divided between the French side on the north and the Dutch side on the
south. Where you check in makes a
difference. We chose the French side,
Marigot Bay. I you stay on the Dutch
side you have to pay more, there is a charge for going through the bridge and a
cruising fee to anchor in their bay or their side of the lagoon. The French are more lenient, They will charge
a cruising fee if you check in at the Customs office near the marina but if you
go into town to the Island Water World store they have a computer set up that
you use to check in, print your paperwork and one of their employees signs them
and collects your $2.00 fee. Being poor
broke sailors we opted for the computer option.
It was my first time checking in using a French keyboard and most of the
form in French. With a little help we
got checked in and started to wander around the town. After a great lunch at one of the bakeries we
took the dinghy through the French bridge, through the lagoon, under the
causeway bridge and took a tour of the Dutch harbor. We stopped at the Island Water World store
there to check it out and to meet Rene.
Rene is the store manager and a good friend of Lee and Sharon. We pumped him for information then headed
back to the boat.
Thursday, the 23rd, we loaded the Honda generator
into the dinghy and got ready to run back to Island Water World to have it
serviced. It runs but after it ran out
of gas once it would not idle smoothly.
I suspected some debris got into the low speed jet. After waiting out a short rain shower we were
off. They could not promise when it
would be done but we could make it through the weekend without it if we had
to. We also talked to Rene about our
problem getting the dinghy up on plane.
His advice was that wings would help but a lower pitch propeller would
make a big difference. They gave us
directions to the Yamaha dealer and we were off on foot again. Just down the street is Budget Marine, the
other big marine store and we stopped there to look around. There we ran into Tony and Deb from Exit
Stage Left that we had met and traveled with in the Bahamas last year. Once back on the boat we called a dive
service to come out and clean the bottom.
It hadn’t been done since we were hauled out after catching a crab pot
up in the Delaware River. They were just
finishing a job and said they would be right over. We now have a clean bottom again. By 2:30 they were done and we headed into
town to a shop called Shrimpies which offers a number of services for cruisers
including Wi-Fi. We have been without
Wi-Fi for almost a week. Once at the
shop we were able to get online and get updates and email. One email was from the shop repairing the
generator. Due to the rain showers
earlier the service tech did inside jobs instead of working on boats. He cleaned and adjusted the carburetor and it
was running fine. I made the run down to
get it, stopped off at Shrimpies to pick up Cori and then back to the
boat. The transfer of the generator onto
the boat was successful, we didn’t drop it overboard, and then we headed back
to the Dutch side for happy hour with Tony and Deb.
On Friday we started out early by bringing a propane tank in
to be filled and to catch the shuttle to the grocery store. We met up with Tony and Deb again. Once the groceries were on board I collected
the tools and supplies I thought I would need and we set off with the dinghy to
find a beach we could use to change out the prop. The new prop gets us up on plane in half the
distance and we don’t notice a loss of speed.
We are happy. We went back to
town and stopped at the Tourist Center and they were having an event for the
Carnival: free snacks and pasties and a variety of music and dance acts. We wandered back to the main town center and
ran into Dean and Kim from Dream Catcher whom we met last year while we were in
Nassau. From there we stopped at a phone
store to get a sim card for the phone and then over to Dream Catcher for
dinner. We now have a data plan for as
long as we are here and on a variety of other islands. We can again communicate with the world.
Saturday started with music for Carnival at 5:00 am blasting
out into the harbor. Later as I let the
generator run we went into town to check out the market. Lots of stalls selling everything they think
a tourist should have and more. There
were also stalls selling fresh fish, meat and fruits and vegetables. The weather forecast is for the winds to
increase and be in the 20’s out of the east for the next week so we opted to
pull the anchor and move closer to the shore with the others to be better
protected. On the second try the anchor
set and we are now part of the herd. In
the afternoon we headed back to the Dutch side for a fishing seminar at Island
Water World and then to a party at the Buccaneer Beach Bar being put on by
Outpost Magazine. Outpost Magazine is
the latest of Bob Bitchin’s endeavors.
Bob became famous or at least well know when he started and ran
Latitudes and Attitudes magazine and wrote a couple of books about cruising. We spent the evening visiting with old and
new cruising friends and talking to Bob.
It was a long slow ride back to the boat in the dark but we didn’t hit
anything and we didn’t get hit by anyone else.
Sunday was the adult parade celebrating Carnival; the kids’
parade was earlier in the week. We went
to town early and took the climb up the Fort Louis. The fort was built around
1780 and there isn’t much left of it other than the walls but it is a
spectacular view. We met up with Dean
and Kim again and moved down by the sports stadium to watch the parade. The parade was set to start at 12:00 but
would take a couple of hours to get to us.
We made use of the time at one of the vendors sitting under their
sunshade drinking beer and eating. For
$16.00 we got ribs, chicken, rice, macaroni and a salad that fed all four of us
and the beer was $2.00 a bottle.
Let me describe the parade: slowly coming down the street is
an 18 wheel truck with a flatbed trailer.
On the trailer is a generator, as many BIG speakers as they can stack
and either live of recorded music playing loud enough to make your ears
bleed. Behind that is a dance group with
elaborate feathered costumes dancing.
This goes on for a little more than an hour but the party doesn’t
stop. It is reported they will be doing
another pass. We wander up and down the
street partying with everyone else until we decide to go home. We got back aboard about 6:30 and I lay down
for a “nap” that lasts all night.
Today, Monday, we made a run into town and walked up to the
grocery store for more fresh provisions.
On the way back we stopped at one of the sidewalk cafes for lunch and to
use their Wi-Fi. As Cori made a trip
down the block to pick up some bread at one of the bakeries the people at the
next table must have noticed my tee shirt from Oriental and announced they were
from New Bern NC. It was Hal and Marsha
on Eagles Wings and Rick and Peggy on Vision Quest. Back at the boat I am running the generator
since it is mostly cloudy and the solar panels are not producing much
electricity and the water maker is also running.
The weather forecast is for winds in the 20’s out of the
east for the rest of the week. When it
looks like it will drop off we will move to another island. Which one we still have not decided but it
will be hard to leave St. Martin.